Old Cits may attract rodents, but at least they don’t have soy based wiring!

While we classic Citroën owners face a barrage of vermin who like to nest various places in our cars, at least we are not plagued by what modern automobile owners are facing.  It is very common nowadays for newer cars to have wiring that is coated in soy based bioplastics.  Starting in the early 2000’s, car manufacturers began using bioplastics (soy based wiring).  This has led to a surge of issues with wildlife, particularly rodents, being attracted to these wires for consumption. Now, not only are rodents attracted to the cars for shelter, but also for food.

 

(his net suedo name) at Howtopreventratsfromeatingcarwires.com has taken to time to not only research but post tips on how deal with the problem. It’s a highly informative resource that we are pleased to include in this post.  Here’s what Dave says:

In researching this, I was blown away by the number of complaints on websites, articles and forums of people reporting rodent damage on their newer cars. To be honest, both of my cars that were attacked are newer (2015 Honda, $2,400+ in damages, and 2012 Hyundai, $9,300+ in damages).

So, are you at risk? Does your car have soy based wiring?

In order to help determine, there are class action lawsuits that were recently filed against Honda, Toyota, KIA, and Hyundai. Here is a list of each class action lawsuit (including some links to more information):

From the lawsuits, we can gather that at least the following have soy based wiring:

Toyota

  • All 2012-2016 model year Toyota vehicles
  • 2011 Toyota 4Runner
  • 2009-2011 Toyota Camry
  • 2010 Toyota Prius
  • 2011 Toyota Prius C
  • 2008-2011 Toyota RAV4
  • 2009-2011 Toyota Tundra
  • 2009 Toyota Highlander
  • 2010 Toyota Venza Ltd.

Honda

  • All 2012-2015 model year Honda vehicles

KIA

  • 2012-2017 Kia Soul
  • 2012-2017 Sorrento
  • 2012-2017 Sedona
  • 2012-2017 Sportage
  • 2012-2017 Forte
  • 2012-2017 Cadenza
  • 2012-2017 Optima
  • 2012-2017 Rio

Hyundai

  • 2013-2016 Veloster
  • 2013-2016 Accent
  • 2013-2016 Azera
  • 2013-2016 Elantra
  • 2013-2016 Equus
  • 2013-2016 Genesis Coupe
  • 2013-2016 Santa Fe
  • 2013-2016 Sonata
  • 2013-2016 Tuscon

I have also seen numerous complaints that reference earlier makes and models than what is referenced above.

Separately, I have seen reports of rodent damage due to soy based wiring on pretty much every large car manufacturer:

  • Audi
  • BMW
  • Dodge
  • Ford
  • Hyundai
  • Mazda
  • Nissan
  • Porsche
  • GMC
  • Chevrolet
  • Kia
  • …and I’m sure there’s many more

To be frank, this is a HUGE ISSUE!!

So to answer the question, “are you at risk?”, if your car is 2008 or newer, then YES! I think the evidence can’t be any more clear that if you own a newer car you need to take preventative action ASAP!

If you are reading this article, I could imagine either you are dealing with this issue or you have a friend that has rodent damage to their car. Here is an excerpt from the Home page (w/ edits for mice) that will tell you exactly what I have done to fix this problem:

“Before we get started I want to make it crystal clear that the instructions below explain the EXACT steps and products I used (and continue to use!) to successfully protect my car against rodents. This methodology factors in rodent behavior and psychology which makes for a very high probability of success.

Exactly How To Prevent Rats & Mice From Eating Your Car Wires

What you will need:

Step 1: Leave Your Hood Up At Night

At the first sign of damage or rodent droppings in the engine compartment, it is essential to leave your hood up at night. You should do this for the first 1-2 weeks every night and then 2-3 times a week once you feel comfortable that there are no more rodents visiting your car. This essentially eliminates the engine compartment as a potential nesting grounds by taking away the warmth, allowing more moisture to enter, and exposing it to more light.

Step 2: Place Tomcat Rat Snap Traps (For Rats) or Tomcat Press ‘N Set Mouse Traps (For Mice) on the Tread of the Front 2 Tires

You will need 6 snap traps total and 3 will be placed at specific locations on the tread of the front 2 tires. Here is video to show exactly where to place the snap traps.

When rodents enter the car, they climb up the tread of the tires so this essentially will block off the entrance to the car. I use the Tomcat Rat Snap Traps and the Tomcat Press ‘N Set Mouse Traps because they are super easy to set (i.e. I don’t feel like I am going to lose a finger when I set them), their design makes it almost impossible for a rodent to take the bait without setting off the trap, and they get the job done!

Step 3: Spray Rodent Defense into the Engine Compartment

In the first 1-2 weeks, spray the engine compartment 3-4 times a week and then reduce to 2-3 times week once you haven’t noticed any new signs of rodents. Rodent Defense is an all natural peppermint spray that was specifically created to deter rodents from chewing on the wires in cars.  The purpose of the spray is to confuse the rodent on the safety of the engine compartment by making it more difficult to detect the scent of their urine. As mentioned above in the enemy profile, rodents use urine as a way to mark paths, locations, food, etc., as safe.

Step 4: Shine Bright Lights on the Tread of the Front Two Tires

As mentioned in the enemy profile, rodents always prefer to stay concealed and hate being in the light. The goal of this solution is to deter the rodent from climbing up the tread of the tires by forcing it to walk through a spotlight to get into the car. It would be best if you laid out 4 flashlights on the ground level and shined them on the front and backs of the tread (i.e. essentially you would shine them on the snap traps that are at the bases of the tread). Alternatively, you could take a shop light and shine that under the car at night.

(Optional) Step 5: Place Fake Owl on the Ground Near the Car

This is more the cherry on top, but I have always used a fake owl in my lineup. You can just place it at ground level and move to a different spot every few days. To be honest, it’s effectiveness is unknown, but it makes me feel more comfortable.”


I am certainly available if anyone has any questions or comments. Please drop a note below or visit the Contact Us page.

I hope that you have found this article to be helpful!  Thank you!!

Rat King Dave

1 comment

  1. Re eliminating mouse damage – I learned something recently while working on my 1960 Humber Super Snipe as a change from 50+ yrs of Citroens and more recently a passel of Panhards. I had drained the AF from the Snipe to work on the radiator, and had the AF on the barn’s concrete floor last Dec. before I headed for Ca. for the winter. The AF was in the plastic pan, which is about 6 in. deep, and had about 2-3 in. of AF in it. When I happened to glance at the pan around Dec. 2nd, I saw a dead mouse in it! That triggered a memory of a road rally I was on in 1994 – Raid America Northwest – which involved 26 Ducks from around the world, with myself and son In my ’67 DS21 cabrio. We had started a 3 wk road trip in Vancouver, and in the first several days made it to Glacier Nat’l park. Some time that day as I went back to the car in the parking lot, I had to shoo a gorgeous white mountain goat away from a puddle of AF some car had leaked onto the parking lot, as it was about to drink it, and I knew it was poison to animals. And it sure worked on the mice in my barn! I threw the first mouse into the woods, and in the next couple weeks, that pan suckered a total of 4 mice to their ends!. Seems most animals like the sweet taste of the AF, and it wrecks them. So – I left the pan where it was, and figured it’d be a renewing mousetrap since I didn’t need to bait it!. That was a good thing, as my mice had gotten so smart they could lick the peanut butter or whatever bait I’d loaded my simple cheap wood/springtraps right off the trigger and leave it clean as a whistle! So – you might want to try a pan of nice green AF in your garage or barn to see how it works.
    Then of course there’s also the Redneck mousetrap: put an empty quart paint can on a piece of 1/4 in. steel rod thru center of lid & bottom, mount across a 5 gal plastic bucket with the axle fastened to bucket opening. Put a quart of water in bottom – or AF. Make sure paint can can rotate easily on axle. Make up wood ramp to top edge of bucket. Place peanut butter or other bait on several spots around center of paint can. Mouse runs up ramp, leaps onto paint can, rolls itself into the drink! Whatever works!

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